Cultural tourism

Community Tourism as Activism

The social media flier that I created for our ongoing GofundMe fundraising campaign. More info and link at bottom of post.

TOURISM: The activity, practice, and promotion of touring, especially for pleasure.

COMMUNITY TOURISM: Sharing of a local community with visitors for the sustainable benefit of that local community. The invited visitors contribute economically to the community, while experiencing the local customs, food, lifestyle, sets of beliefs, etc. Both visitors and locals are left with the feeling that they have enhanced the life of the other in a positive way.

ACTIVISM: The practice of action and involvement as a means of achieving goals.

ACTIVISM AS IT RELATES TO COMMUNITY TOURISM: Tour guides and tourists (travelers, for those of you who loathe to be called a tourist) performing actions and getting involved to benefit local communities, both during and after the visit; Speaking up for, advocating for, and amplifying the voices of the local communities to spread awareness and effect positive change.

Most of you know the types of trips that I guide in Panama, and have been developing since 2010. If not, the above description of “activism as it relates to community tourism” is what I’m all about. I’m going to be making some changes to my website soon to reflect a more significant move in this direction. What are the changes? I will be adding trips lead by local Panamanian, Indigenous, and Black guides, who I have recently been approached to help establish sustainable tourism projects to benefit their communities.

Even prior to the current Movements gaining momentum in the United States (Black Lives Matter, LGTBQ+, Latinx, Indigenous, Refugees, Immigrants) I’ve been brainstorming ways to bring this energy to tourism in Panama, to bring attention to communities that have been historically overlooked by tourism, and are often disenfranchised and somewhat ignored by government resources. The members of these communities, I have experienced, are often the ones with the strongest ties to each other, their culture and traditions. They rely on each other in a way that more privileged communities don’t have to, the latter resulting in a disconnect from one another. As for the former, one reason for this is that they haven’t been infiltrated by heaps of tourists. This is why our upcoming focus is on community tourism, and not simply tourism that takes and doesn’t give back.

How does the ‘activism’ part connect? The activism comes into play in the goals of the tourism activity, or entire trip. The guides who I will be working with and promoting are educators, community organizers and leaders, who are proud of their culture, and they want their guests to experience a truthful representation of what their lives are actually like. They teach about the struggles of their people, as well as their dreams and aspirations. When this is the goal of tourism, the guests make connections to the people, the place, and the history in a unique way. They are often called to action to speak up, advocate, and provide economically for these communities when given the opportunity. This type of tourism helps create these opportunities.

I have found that the guests who have gone on trips with me and trips with my co-organizer for the GoFundMe campaign (flier at the top and info below), Victor, are the people who have donated the most to our fundraiser. They contact me to ask about the communities that they visited. They ask about certain people, their families, and children. They experienced a glimpse into the reality that many people face every day, and that impression never leaves them.

GoFundMe Information: Since the start of the campaign in Mid-March, we (myself and Panamanian organizers who run a non-profit for children and local tour operation) have been distributing food bags to families in need in different areas in and around Panama City, as well as 5 Guna communities in Guna Yala. We have also been able to help other community organizers get donations. There is still much need and we will continue to do this work as long as we can. Please consider making a donation, and/or sharing this to your social media or through email. Every amount makes a difference. Thank you! Click here for GoFundMe campaign.

Follow me on Instagram, and always feel free to contact me. I’d love to hear from you. Stay safe and healthy!

Covid-19 Update

My oh my, it’s been a while since I’ve posted, and the world is completely different! Sweeping changes are on the horizon for the global travel industry. No one is entirely sure what it will look like. I am closely monitoring the developing Covid-19 situation, as it relates to what I am able to offer my guests.

Group unity, all eyes on the horizon, Guna Yala

Alaska: I am still uncertain whether or not I will travel to Alaska this summer to sea kayak guide for Anadyr Adventures, which is currently open for business, offering paddling tours out of Valdez, Alaska. I’ve guided 8 wonderful seasons there and I highly recommend them. If I don’t go this summer, perhaps summer 2021. Feel free to contact me for more info regarding Alaska.

Day trip to the Face of Columbia Glacier

Panama: As of today (May 27th) Panama’s borders remain closed to international travelers. I am hoping to be able to offer trips during my normal season, starting in December 2020 and into the 2021 season. I will be posting new and exciting trip offerings (new destinations in Panama) soon. Stay tuned! Panama has been handling the pandemic with strict quarantines and other safety precautions. I will base my operation decisions with the health of my guests and the communities that we visit as top priority, as well as following the CDC and other travel advisory recommendations. Panama will be an excellent destination to visit when we are safely able to do so, and I hope that you consider joining me on an adventure there! I believe strongly in community-based tourism, and many of the areas where I operate are being devastated by the lack of income from the disappearance of tourism. These communities will certainly benefit from the income boost once tourism starts up again. Plus, we all miss being together!

SPECIAL UPDATE: My most popular trip in Panama, that I co-lead with my dear friend and yoga instructor, Leigh Lubin (YogaCurrents), is the Yoga/Kayak Retreat, a 9-day all-inclusive trip that explores both Pacific and Caribbean coasts of Panama. We are excited to be offering this trip for the 4th time: January 16-24, 2021. Let me know if you are interested. Who knows what will happen, but we reluctantly had to turn people down last year due to its popularity.

Fresh coconut water, Yoga/Kayak Retreat (2019)

Mother-Daughter quality hammock time, Yoga/Kayak Retreat (2019)

Opportunity to Give: Do you want to support families in need in Panama? You can still make a difference in these communities without leaving your couch. Contribute to the delivery of food and other necessities to vulnerable communities by making a donation to this GoFundMe Campaign that I established in March, in collaboration with a non-profit organization in Panama City that provides programs for underserved youth, LocalinPTY Kids Program. Victor, the founder of this program also operates LocalinPTY Tours, which offers tourists a unique experience getting to know locals in a neighborhood previously run-down and neglected by tourists. These are examples of community-based tourism at its’ best. Along with Victor, I have an active team of Panamanian community organizers who I send 100% of the donations to. Thus far, we have provided for hundreds of families, and hope to continue! Gracias:) If you don’t use Instagram and would like more information about these organizations, please let me know. They have rave reviews from those who have participated.

A family in Panama is happy to receive food donations during Covid-19 Lockdown

I invite you to check out my trips, get inspired by photos and videos, and start dreaming of your next adventure. Please don’t hesitate to contact me regarding trips, or just to say hello. Follow me on Instagram to stay up-to-date and get travel inspiration. Stay safe. Stay healthy. Take care of one another.

HIKING THE VELEBIT MOUNTAINS OF CROATIA: The Perfect Accompaniment to Paddling the Northern Dalmatian Coast

Perfect day for hiking in the Velebit Mountains, Paklenica National Park, Croatia

*If you’re reading this in your email, it looks far better on my website.*

Hola! Although I’m amidst the current sea kayaking season in Panama, my sights are set ahead on an exciting offering in Croatia, June 1-9, 2019. Some of you know that I completed an exploratory trip to Croatia in October 2018. After that trip the deal was sealed, and I’m excited to return in June as a guide in collaboration with Venture Outside to share the tranquility, adventure, and beauty of Croatian coast and mountains. Check out part one of this blog about sea kayaking in the Adriatic Sea in Northern Dalmatia. Enjoy:)

Velebit Mountains, Paklenica National Park, Croatia

*The trip that I completed with a friend in October was so wonderful that this upcoming trip in June is almost identical. No use in changing something that’s already amazing! This blog highlights two days of hiking in Paklenica National Park, which is included in my 9-day June Kayak/Bike/Hike Croatia trip.*

Croatia Trip Part Two: After 4 days of spectacular sea kayaking in the Adriatic Sea off the Northern Dalmatian Coast, we transferred to the Velebit Mountains and Paklenica National Park, which lies about 47km northeast from Zadar. A beautiful coastal city in North Dalmatia famous for its Old Town, Zadar is completely pedestrianized and chock-full of fascinating history. Don’t miss sampling delicious local food (like octopus salad and cuttlefish risotto) and a visit to the Sea Organ. Oh, how I loved the Sea Organ! This cleverly engineered musical instrument was designed to allow water and air to flow through resonant chambers and to be pushed out through channels on stairs that you can walk on. The undulating sounds created by the energy of waves and tide are spectacular. So loved is the Sea Organ that the Croatian architect who designed it, Nikola Bašić, received the European Prize for Urban Public Space in 2006, as the best among 207 candidate projects from across Europe.

Paddling in Northern Dalmatia

Smooth paddling in the Adriatic Sea

Local Octopus & Potato Salad, Zadar

Zadar at night

The Sea Organ, Zadar

Old Town, Zadar

I don’t know about you, but when I travel to a new place I purposefully avoid looking at too many photos beforehand. I enjoy being surprised by new surroundings. The Velebit mountains and Paklenica National Park were worth seeing for the first time in person! Prior to this trip I was unaware that Croatia had such rugged mountains.

Velebit Mountains, Paklenica National Park

Background Info: Paklenica National Park covers an area of 59 sq. miles (95 km) and is located on the southern slopes of the Velebit mountains, which is the largest mountain range in Croatia and part of the Dinaric Alps. Famous for hiking, the park was established in 1949, mainly to protect the largest and best preserved forest ecosystem in Dalmatia against exploitation. The name Paklenica likely comes from black pine sap called “paklina”, which locals used in traditional medicine for wound treatment, as well as coating wooden boats. Interesting.

Enjoying the view in the Velebit Mountains, Paklenica National Park

The topography of the region is known as karst, which results from the excavating effects of underground water on underlying soluble rock, such as limestone, gypsum, and dolomite. The resulting landscape consists of features like caves, sinkholes, underground rivers, and barren, rocky ground. Combine expansive views of the Adriatic Sea on one side and Bosnia and Herzegovina on the other with dramatic sculpted cliffs, wooded valleys, and mountain meadows, and you get a world class hiking destination. The area is also rich in flora and fauna, home to numerous endemic species. In 1978 the entire Velebit range was included in the world network of biosphere reserves within the UNESCO program of Man and the Biosphere.

Beautiful day for a hike, Paklenica National Park

What a view! Velebit Mountains, Paklenica National Park

Upon entering Paklenica National Park, we passed what is considered to be one of Europe’s most famous climbing areas. With light packs we hiked gradually uphill to a mountain hut, our home for the next 2 nights. As a kayaker, I don’t spend too much time carrying things on my back nor using my legs to propel me forward. However, it was a wonderful challenge and change from the previous days of paddling. Spectacular views, excellent food, and lively conversation were the theme at the mountain hut.

Sunset at the mountain hut, Paklenica National Park

Made it to the hut! Paklenica National Park

Upon arrival the hut caretaker cheerfully greeted us with a shot of “medicine”. I admit that I don’t remember what it was, nor was I totally confident that I ever knew; all I can say is that it burned on the way down. We were also served plates of steaming burek. I could write an entire blog about burek, as I sampled plenty of it in Croatia, however someone else more knowledgeable already has, and it’s worth reading here. Basically, burek is a baked pastry made of thin flaky dough, filled with meat or cheese. . and it’s damn delicious!

Burek and a shot of “medicine” upon arrival at the mountain hut

Summit Pic! Vaganski Vrh 5764ft

Vaganski Vrh Summit Day: Early to bed, early to rise. A gorgeous and challenging-at-times (also flat-at-times) hike brought us through Beech, Black and Mountain Pine forests, where we enjoyed forest bathing (never heard of it? It’s pretty cool, google it!) and mountain meadows. At one such meadow we arrived at the exact moment when the sun began to burn off the morning dew, creating a mesmerizing effect. A few hours and many snack breaks later we were standing on Vaganski Vrh, the highest peak in the entire Velebit mountain range at 5,764 ft (1,757m). What a magnificent blue-sky sunny day. I had no idea the views would be so vast and spectacular! We could see to the Adriatic Sea on one side and to Bosnia and Herzegovina on the other side. Maybe I ought to hike more often. As much as I love sea kayaking, it’s pretty difficult to get summit views at altitude from your kayak!

Mountain meadow meets forest

Sun burning off morning dew

House from years past, Paklenica National Park

Forest bathing, Paklenica National Park

Hiking in Paklenica National Park

Hiking in Paklenica National Park

That about wraps it up for now. The best way to explore the Northern Dalmatian coast is in a sea kayak, and the best way to explore the Velebit mountains and Paklenica National Park is hiking! Amazing views, fresh air, great climate, delicious food, and always something exciting to discover around the next corner. If your senses have been piqued by Croatia I invite you to join me in June. Contact me!

Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more blogs about Croatia, Panama, and Alaska, where you can join me for sea kayaking, yoga, and cultural adventures. It’s not too early to start planning your summer holiday in Alaska. Stay connected and follow me on Instagram @ileneinakayak

Summer in Alaska awaits, Meares Glacier, Prince William Sound

KAYAKING THE NORTHERN DALMATIAN COAST OF CROATIA: A Dreamy Destination

Amazed at our dreamy paddling conditions near Molat, Croatia (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

I’m back from a brief hiatus; a whirlwind of travel, family, friends, and new experiences this past month. It’s been a while since I’ve done any writing. Here’s what I’ve been up to (instead of writing blogs):

Wrapped up my 7th season kayak guiding with Anadyr Adventures in Valdez, Alaska. Woohoo!
Went sea kayaking and hiking in Copper Harbor on the Keweenaw Peninsula in Michigan (on lake Superior) for the first time. Get excited for an upcoming blog about what this adventure-filled area has to offer, highlighting the awesome Keweenaw Adventure Company.
Enjoyed some family time (and Asian food) in my hometown of Philadelphia
Completed a 3-week exploratory trip to Croatia and Slovenia, including sea kayaking off the Northern Dalmatian coast (read on), hosted by Malik Adventures, with whom I am excited to collaborate to offer a Sea Kayaking & Multisport Trip in Croatia this May (will include biking, hiking, probably SUP & Yoga). More on that at the end of this blog.
I’m currently watching 3 dogs and 4 cats in Vermont for a few weeks before I thaw out in . . . PANAMA!

On with the show! Croatia and the dreamy Dalmatian Coast

The northwestern tip of Dugi otok, Northern Dalmatian coast, Croatia

We spent a few hours relaxing on the limestone rocks, near Molat, Croatia

Those sunsets!

It’s hard to put into words such a recent experience that has had a profound impact on me. One word: MESMERIZING. (Which, according to the dictionary means hypnotizing, spellbinding, fascinating. . . yes, yes, and yes!) Everything about sea kayaking in the Adriatic Sea mesmerized me. The intricate design of the limestone, the subtle patterns on the water driven by different winds (yes, there are 8 wind words based on the direction from where it’s coming. . How neat is that?!), walking through fields of rosemary, colorful roses outside of every house, the sight of bees pollinating flowers, and those sunsets, oh my god! those sunsets. They’re in a whole other league of sunsets. Best part: they happened every single night!

The many words for wind

Molat!

Rosemary everywhere

Intricate limestone shoreline

Roses at every corner

Our Trip

Kayaking with good friends, Croatia

After our first couple days exploring Dubrovnik, my friend and I took a 55-minute ferry from Zadar, which is a beautiful city on the Dalmatian coast (worth a visit), to an island called Molat, where we were warmly welcomed by Marko Mrše. Our guide, new friend, and now collaborator for my upcoming Kayak & Multisport trip Croatia, is the founder of Malik Adventures, a wonderful company that offers multi-day and multi-sport (sea kayaking, SUP, yoga, hiking, biking, & even ski touring in the Slovenian Alps) adventures in the Northern Dalmatia archipelago. Marko is a living representation of Malik’s mission: to discover and get inspired by nature, adventure and culture. And that we did! We spent 6 inspiring and adventure-filled days with Marko; 4 on Molat and 2 hiking in Paklenica National Park. *This blog focuses on kayaking in Molat. Stay tuned for my next blog highlighting the incredibly scenic Paklenica N.P. and the mountain hut where we stayed.*

Sparkly surroundings near Molat, Croatia (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

Hiking in Paklenica National Park, Croatia (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

As a kayak guide I have not too often had the privilege of going on a guided trip as a client. After this experience, I could get used to it:) Truth be told, I wasn’t a full-on client. The purpose of my Croatian journey this past October was to experience the trip so that I can guide here in the future. Marko regaled us with stories of visiting these islands as a child, invoking our curiosity by painting a picture of how these places have changed. This was not simply a mundane “paddle from A to B, then from B to C” type of trip. This was a full experience, enriched with the fascinating history of the area, the delicious local foods we got to taste, and the self-discovery that accompanies any true adventure. This is the type of destination that you truly feel each trip is unique, offering to guests what they are seeking, even if that is unknown to them.

Croatia’s spectacular crystalline coastline (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

Evening hike on Molat

Scenic Molat harbor

Our backyard on Molat

On Molat we stayed in a lovely apartment owned by a local family (a welcome change from my usual camping and hammocking in Panama and Alaska) and had delicious multi-course meals served to us, using local ingredients for the yummy honeys, jams and fruits at breakfast. Dinner always included a stout aperitif homemade from local herbs. Definitely got the job done of whetting our appetites for the amazing meals showcasing local seafood, such as cuttlefish, squid and octopus (I’ve got a thing for Cephalopods). I must say how impressed I was with this Croatian cuisine, and I have pretty high standards when it comes to local cuisines:) Fun fact: “Molat” comes from the Greek word mellitus, meaning “tastes like honey”, which is also the name of Marko’s wife (& Malik co-owner), Ivana’s line of natural body products (Mellitus) that she was so kind to give us samples of her face cream and lip balm that I am still enjoying. It’s a very fitting name, as honey and honey-scented products are very prominent in Croatia. Bring back those bees!

Feasting on local fare, Molat

A common way to cook Octopus, Molat

Falling in love with the Greenland-style paddle and the Croatian coastline, Ist

Happy paddler, Molat, Croatia

Olive groves on Zverinac, Croatia

Fishing boat near Molat, Croatia (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

What was the coolest paddle, you ask?

No need for me to think about this too hard. Paddling into a submarine cave was definitely a highlight, and something that I can’t say I’ve ever done before. Croatia was part of former Yugoslavia, and there exists fascinating relics all over the place as a nod to the country’s military past, some of which Marko introduced us to. The layout of the islands created strategic hiding places to house submarines, tunnels, bunkers, and barracks. What a cool place to kayak!

Mesmerized by a submarine cave (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

Marko in the submarine cave

I’m really excited to be in the submarine cave

From our bike ride across Molat

In addition to the dreamy kayaking we also worked our legs biking and hiking. It is a magnificent 9km bike ride from one end of the island to the other. From the community of Molat the road takes you through another community called Brgulje, then on to Zapuntel at the other end. I delighted in passing through these small villages, resplendent in color from flowers and gardens. From there we paddled to another island called Ist, where we hiked up to a beautiful white church to earn spectacular views of the surrounding islands.

The community of Ist

Church atop Ist

View from the top of Ist

Inspired to Join me in Croatia?

Croatia is gaining momentum as a destination to experience adventure, culture and nature. It certainly piqued my senses, with its tastes, scents, history, and culture. As you can see from my photos it also offers world-class paddling and hiking. If this blog has enticed you in any way to add Croatia to your “next up” destination, please consider joining my upcoming all-inclusive 9-day trip and experience the magic (and sunsets) of Croatia for yourself. Along with the exciting collaboration with Malik Adventures, I am also thrilled to team up with another exceptional adventure company called Venture Outside in offering this Croatia trip. Contact me! Also find me on Facebook and Instagram @ileneinakayak

Stay tuned for my next blog highlighting the hiking in Paklenica National Park (Photo: Marko Mrše, Malik Adventures)

Upcoming Panama Trip Plug:

Yes please! Guna Yala, Panama

Before Croatia calls me back, I will be spending the next 5 months guiding kayaking trips on both the Caribbean (in the San Blas Islands, aka Guna Yala) and the Pacific (Isla Coiba National Park) of Panama. For those yoga and kayaking lovers I am excited to join yoga instructor, Leigh Lubin to offer our second annual unique all-inclusive 9-day Yoga/Kayak Retreat that explores both coasts of Panama. Check it out here for more info. I’m biased. . . but it’s an amazing trip that we’re really excited about! We are now extending the following discount:

If you sign up with two other people, you get a 50% discount
If you sign up with three other people, you only pay $1,000 (an incredible deal!)

Parting Croatia Pics:

Flowers everywhere, Molat

Local fishing boats on Zverinac

We paddled to Dugi otok

JOIN ME IN CROATIA IN 2019!

Paddling in Croatia

Hola! I hope this finds everyone well:) I’m still in Panama, getting ready for the final sea kayaking trip of the season to Guna Yala, on the Caribbean. However, I’m always dreaming of future padding destinations (the list is long!). I’ll spend this summer guiding my 7th season in Prince William Sound, Alaska. . then my sights are set for Croatia in October. I’ll be doing an exploratory trip to plan an amazing itinerary that I am excited to offer in 2019. It will include paddling the gorgeous Zadar Archipelago, with day trips for hiking to the surrounding National Parks, wine-tasting at local vineyards, and city tours with local guides. More updates to come about this exciting trip offering. Please stay tuned and contact me if you are interested.

Paddling in Croatia

As for now, I’d like to share a wonderful blog post written by the local operator which I will be collaborating with for my upcoming trip. Paddling Croatia in winter! Looks amazing. Please check it out.

Sea cave exploration, Croatia

Paddling in wintertime, Croatia

Stay tuned for an upcoming blog about a recent 4-day sea kayaking and snorkeling adventure to the beautiful Isla Coiba National Park on the Pacific side. Isla Coiba is a gem of this magnificent country, and any trip to Panama should definitely include a visit here. Here’s a sneak peak from the adventure, which included close encounters with monkeys, sea turtles, and reef sharks, a spectacular sunset paddle, and so much snorkeling right from our kayaks:

Sunset paddle at Isla Coiba, Panama

This Sea Turtle swam directly under our kayaks, Isla Coiba, Panama

A hammock is obligatory, Isla Coiba, Panama

I could have touched this Sea Turtle (I didn’t. . . but I could have!), Isla Coiba, Panama

Isla Coiba is the best place to snorkel in all of Panama. It’s like snorkeling in an aquarium.

Thanks for reading. I hope that you have enjoyed these adventures!

MY TRIP TO SAN BLAS TO CELEBRATE THE GUNA REVOLUTION

Why am I writing about this? Why does it matter?

I’m sharing this with you because the Guna Revolution is a unique celebration of a fascinating culture that YOU can experience for yourself. This is something that you can travel to witness and even participate in. The Guna want people to see their Revolution celebration. It is open to the public and they are very welcoming and eager to share their culture with visitors! In fact, they asked me to tell as many people about it as possible. For those of you who are up for real adventure travel, you will be grateful for the journey. Following is my story from the 93rd Anniversary of the Guna Revolution:

The traditional Guna dance to celebrate the Revolution, Isla Tigre

I made it back from the Guna Revolution! It was quite the journey to get out to Isla Tigre, which included getting left behind by the only boat of the day to make the long-distance journey. Now I know. . . if you want to go to Isla Tigre, you have to show up with the Guna passengers and NOT when the tourists show up. It was a happy accident however. I spent an extra night on a beautiful island called Nurdup and got to spend more time with this little guy, Cristian, who is the closest thing to a Pokemon that I have ever met. Adorable!

Tigre is my favorite community that I’ve been to in Guna Yala (formerly known as San Blas) on the Caribbean side of Panama, which is where I guide kayaking trips. I’m not going to go into too much detail about what the Guna Revolution is because I recently wrote a blog about that, which you can find here. However, in a nutshell, the Guna are an indigenous group of Panama, who fought the Panamanian police, which culminated in a battle in February 1925. The Guna won and gained semi-autonomy. February 25 is a day of grand celebration on some of the communities in Guna Yala, the territory that the Guna inhabit.

Guna kids celebrating at the beach after their dramatic reenactment of the fight against the Panamanian police, Isla Tigre

The first day that I was there (Feb 24) the youth performed a dramatic reenactment of the fight between the Guna on Isla Tigre and the Panamanian police, who had been pressuring the Guna to cease practicing their traditional way of life. This had been going on for many years, building in intensity for the Guna. I was the only non-Guna there on this day. I was encouraged to sit in the front and had a few eager “interpreters” by my side, who were explaining the events to me.

The following day (Feb 25) was the reenactment performed by the adults. It is an hours-long, fascinating unfolding of the most significant event in “recent” Guna history. I’m extremely impressed with the acting of the Guna, who take this dramatization very seriously. It was actually quite amusing when young Guna kids would cry and run away because they thought that their parents were actually getting beaten up by Panamanian police. Don’t judge me. . . you would have thought it was amusing too! The following photos are of Guna actors and actresses during the reenactment of the fight with the Panamanian police.

Community members of Isla Tigre watch the reenactment of the fight between the Panamanian police and the Guna

After the impressive reenactment there was traditional Guna dancing and merriment:) All of the actors and actresses held hands in a large circle and took a few moments to remember and to respect what their elders had experienced during this time. It was a very emotional display by the community. The youth on Isla Tigre will certainly not soon forget what their elders went through to enjoy the freedom that they experience today. I was told that this reenactment is obligatory to attend by all community members.

I hope that you enjoyed reading about my experience during the Guna Revolution, and that you will consider making the journey with me in the future to experience it for yourself. We’ll go kayaking to celebrate:)

Guna youth actresses relax at the beach after performing in the reenactment, Isla Tigre

¡Viva La Revolución Dule! ~ Celebrate the Guna Revolution with me

Guna kayak guide, Nemesio, and I pose with a Revolutionary flag on Gardi Sugdup. This year is the 93rd anniversary, so they need to add one more year:)

*If you get this blog in your email, it looks way better if you view it on my website.* Enjoy!

I leave tomorrow morning at 4:30 (yes, in the morning) to go back to Guna Yala! Join me (if not physically, then vicariously by reading this) to celebrate the 93rd anniversary of the greatest event of 20th-century Guna history. ¡Viva La Revolución Dule! Long Live the Guna Revolution! By the way, the Guna are an indigenous group who inhabit the beautiful tropical islands of the Comarca Guna Yala, their semi-autonomous territory in the Caribbean of Panama. There are about 365 islands to explore in the Comarca. This area was formerly known as the San Blas Islands. The Guna are the wonderful people who I guide sea kayaking trips with in the winter months. Check out those trips here.

Guna Revolutionary flags abound during the entire month of February, Gardi Sugdup

I have spent considerable time in many different Guna communities and my favorite one is a community called Digir, or Isla Tigre. It is one of the more traditional and “tranquilo” communities that I have encountered. I work closely with the people from Digir and have developed strong friendships with many community members. They have enthusiastically taught me an incredible amount about their fascinating culture. I am constantly learning new things from them.

Adrian teaches me and my friend, Morgan, about Guna culture, Isla Tigre

THE GUNA REVOLUTION (IN A NUTSHELL. . . LET’S SAY, A COCONUT SHELL:)

It is common to see phrases like this painted on walls in Guna communities ~ “Long Live the Guna Revolution!”

Ninety three years ago on February 25th, 1925 (during Carnival, when the police would be drunk) the Guna launched a rebellion against the Panamanian police, who had taken up residence in their communities. For over a decade, the police had been suppressing many customs they considered uncivilized, including the traditional practice of bathing outdoors, curing rituals, puberty ceremonies, meeting at the gathering house, traditional dance, and women’s dress. By the mid-1920s, police and bureaucrats had pacified about half the islands on the coast. The police had also quashed Guna resistance through jail and guns. Enough was enough for the Guna! They fought. . . and they won! They continue to celebrate this significant victory.

“For our Culture, for Religion, for Tradition and Custom – Long Live the Revolution!”

Fast-forward to the present; Many Guna have maintained much of their traditional way of life. Of course, they are also an adaptable people and certain aspects of their culture have changed, enabling them to be active citizens in the modern world. They believe (and I believe too) that a culture can succeed only if it can adapt to a changing world. A culture that tries to stay the same as it was a century ago will struggle to survive.

A friend’s (Orais) daughter and niece celebrate their puberty ceremony on Isla Tigre

Traditional Dance (Danza Guna) during the Revolution Celebrations, Isla Tigre

Each year the entire month of February is celebrated, especially on the islands that threw off police rule, such as Digir (Isla Tigre). The Revolution is commemorated with speeches, parades, traditional dances, Revolutionary banners and flags, and dramatizations recreating the events of 1925. Actors portray the abuses of the police, the traditional practices they suppressed, and finally the revolt itself. Through these dramas, the Guna address the continuing threats to their autonomy, as well as the value of traditional ways, currently threatened less by government policy than by changes they themselves are making.

Revolution dramatization (actors)

Guna acting as Panama police for the Revolution dramatization

Actors for the Revolution dramatization

Revolution dramatization

Revolution dramatization on Isla Tigre

Below is an awesome video of the Guna dancing in revolutionary celebration on Isla Tigre. If you watch closely you will see a flag that resembles a swastika. If you have been to Guna Yala you will have noticed many of these flags. (This is often one of the first things that people notice.) This is NOT a German Nazi symbol! I’m Jewish, so trust me, I wouldn’t be associating with that ideology. This symbol has a completely different meaning to the Guna. The Guna adopted this “well-being” symbol in the early 1900s. This symbol has been used by many different cultures and religions of the world to signify well-being, good luck and good fortune.

Guna Revolutionary flag

More recent Guna Revolutionary flag

And now, because I am a tour guide at heart and extremely passionate about sharing what I have been blessed with, in this case the opportunity to be immersed in Guna culture, I must say that it is well worth it to experience the Guna Revolution in Guna Yala, especially on Isla Tigre! It’s exciting. . . entertaining. . . fun. . . fascinating. . . and like nothing else you will experience in your life. So mark your calendars for February 25th, 2019! Don’t miss it. Contact me for more information, and to come paddle with me in Guna Yala.

Phil representing with the Revolutionary flag

Guna men ready for the Revolution dramatization on Isla Tigre

While I was doing a bit of research for this blog I came across this YouTube video by Guna musicians. In this video, which features traditional pan flutes and beautiful scenes from Guna Yala, they sing, “For you I’ll fight and die. It’s all that I have. My land is wounded. For you, I’ll give my life,” referring to their islands, their land, their culture.

I leave you with ¡Viva La Revolución Dule! Long Live the Guna Revolution! Stay tuned for future blog posts, including one that I will write about my experience over the next 4 days participating in the Guna Revolution. I’m charging my camera, so there should be some great video footage. I’m looking forward to watching the little kids’ version of the Revolution dramatization, which I’ve not seen before.

Revolutionary Mural on Gardi Sugdup

Just because I love this photo, Guna Yala

YOGA/KAYAK RETREAT: A Coast-to-Coast Adventure in Panama

Are jump-shots ever not a great idea? Guna Yala, Panama

Deep breath. Aaaah. I’m back in Panama City with a computer and time, so I can tell you about the awesome Yoga/Kayak Retreat that yoga instructor, Leigh Lubin, and I guided this past Jan 6-14. We’re excited to announce that we’ll be offering this trip again in January 2019. I’ll keep you posted with dates. Contact me if you’d like more info.

Denali and I getting our SUP on

Leigh, Ulrika & Meghan excited to be in kayaks

YOGA RETREAT ~ THE PACIFIC

Beautiful sunsets every night on the Pacific Coast – 5-minute walk from the yoga retreat

We started our 9-day journey together on the Pacific Coast, with 4 days at a gorgeous Yoga Adventure Retreat, just a 5-minute walk to the beach. Relaxation paradise! It was pretty easy to sink into holiday mode at this lovely place. I mean, we were greeted with ice cold hibiscus tea and there was a hammock pavilion!

Vacation mode

Everybody loves hammocks

The beautiful grounds at the yoga retreat

Leigh guided us in morning and afternoon yoga sessions with her Vitality & Vayus series, which invited us to deepen our yoga practice. She taught and encouraged us to notice how each movement and pose effected us energetically and mentally. A gifted yoga teacher, she created a beautiful balance of uplifting and energetic practices in the mornings, and grounding and calming practices in the evenings. I don’t have too many photos of practicing yoga, as I didn’t want to be behind a camera during practice. I wanted to be doing yoga!

Leigh practicing on the beach

Twist it out

Beautiful flowers

Yoga studio tucked into nature

Enjoying the labyrinth

We also got to play around with stand-up paddle boards. Leigh delighted in practicing her SUP headstands:)

SUP yoga

Getting into a headstand

Headstand!

Then there was the food. . . delicious! What a delight to come out of morning yoga practice to be greeted with fresh fruit and juice. Buen provecho!

Asian stir fry with mung bean noodles

Fresh fruit and juice after morning yoga

Fresh fish with a mango salsa

Happy. . . smiling. . . feeling good!

GUNA YALA ~ THE CARIBBEAN

After the yoga retreat, we traveled to Guna Yala for 4 days of tropical paradise; sea kayaking, snorkeling, lounging in hammocks, and immersing ourselves in the fascinating culture of the Guna. Check out a video of this tropical paradise.

This.is.paradise.

Perfect hammock tree

Phil representing with the Guna flag

Sunset on Nurdup

A little background: I have been kayak guiding in Guna Yala since 2010, and have been in love with the place ever since:) Guna Yala is the semi-autonomous territory of the indigenous Guna of Panama. The tropical coastline stretches 140-miles and borders Colombia. It also comprises about 25 miles of mainland rain forest. We stayed on a tiny island called Nurdup (“Almond Island”, in Guna), and used that as our “basecamp” for day excursions to nearby rivers, mangroves, beaches, and Guna communities.

Click here for a video of our first sunset in Guna Yala. Beautiful.

Check out a cool video of snorkeling. And a kayaking video (this was my first trip with my new Olympus Stylus TG-Tracker camera, so you’ll have to excuse the warped quality of this one).

Welcome to Nurdup

Here are some highlights:

A sunset dip

A heron passing in front of Guna fishing huts

Oh, what fun!

Meghan enjoying a river paddle

Beautiful Coral

Fan Coral

Gone snorkeling

A lobster hiding under Brain Coral

Paddle to a Guna community. The underwater pipe brings fresh water from the mainland.

Selfie time!

Leigh in underwater Dancer pose

Leigh in underwater Eagle pose

“Patacones” (savory plaintains=yum!))

Fresh fruit at every meal

Leigh continued with early morning yoga practice on Nurdup, and we were joined by our Guna kayak guide, Nemesio, who entertained the other Guna with his joyful interpretation of the poses. Namaste, Nemesio!

Morning yoga on Nurdup

Our yoga “studio” surroundings

We also took our yoga off of the mat and donated many gifts to the Guna, especially art supplies, clothing, and books for the kids. Here is Meghan searching for Waldo with our new Guna friends. Dónde está Waldo? I don’t know why the girl looks so sad in this photo. She was pretty excited about her new Fairy book.

Dónde está Waldo?

While on Nurdup we learned a lot about the fascinating lives of the Guna, who have fought to maintain their traditional customs. They are enthusiastic to share their culture with us.

We heard Guna legends from Nemesio
We learned Guna phrases (Nuedi= good, you good? i’m good, we’re all good!)
We went mola-shopping and marveled at this incredible craft. The mola is the beautiful hand-sewn panel that is sewn onto the front and back of the women’s blouse. Many Guna women spend much of their day sewing molas. Click here for a video of trying on a mola.
We learned about the intricate bead work that the women display on their forearms and calves (called wini, much to our amusement). Here is a video of Denali getting her wini on.
We participated in the traditional dance with a youth dance group from a neighboring community. Check out a short video of the dance. Here is a longer one (it starts off a bit slow, but it picks up and is is worth the watch).
We went for a ride in one of their small wooden sailboats (called urbipi). Click here for a video of Leigh and Phil going for a sail.

The ladies getting their “wini” on

The beautiful hand-stitched “mola”

Denali trying on a “mola”

Youth dancers performing the Guna Danza

With the youth Guna dancers

“Wini” close-up

Leigh and Phil go for a ride in an “urbipi”

And, of course, we went kayaking and had loads of fun splashing around in the water. One of the highlights were the post-dance festivities. We enjoyed the Guna Danza so much that we wanted to share with the youth dancers something fun from our group. We invited them to play around in our kayaks. Whoa! I’ve never seen such an enthusiastic reaction (I wish I had it on film). These teenagers (and one adorable 6-year old) leaped out of their seats, shrieking at the tops of their lungs and jumped right into the water with the kayaks. None of them had ever been in a kayak before. However, growing up practically in the water, they did just fine:) Future Guna kayak guides! They even organized themselves into a race. Click here to see the video of the kayak race. Check out this video of a fun, music-filled river paddle (and now I know who Charlie Puth is). Note all the kids we stuffed into the kayaks (that sounds bad, doesn’t it?). We just couldn’t turn them down when they wanted to join us for a paddle.

Guna kayak race

Guna kids playing around

We invited them to return later that evening to join us in a party! Meghan and Denali, two of our participants, had brought all kinds of fun gifts to donate. They even brought glow-sticks, which everyone went crazy for! We used my paddle as a limbo stick and attempted a conga line:) Click here to see a video of our paddle limbo. Of course, the Alaskans put on the country tunes.

Glow-stick party on Nurdup!

CASCO VIEJO – PANAMA CITY

After departing Guna Yala we made a visit to the Panama Canal and caught a large ship going through the Miraflores Locks. Check out the video. We then had a few hours to roam around Casco Viejo, a scenic part of the city, before an entertaining farewell dinner that included delicious Panamanian food and traditional dances from other areas of Panama. Check out the dancing here.

Cruising around Casco Viejo

Typical Panamanian dancing

At the Panama Canal

What a trip! Besides the gorgeous places that we visited, including both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts of Panama and Panama City, what made this trip so exceptional was the people. As a tour guide, it is a gift to be in the company of such open-minded, kind, adventurous, and fun people as Leigh and I had on this trip. Thank you to all of them! You made this trip extremely special.

I leave you with the one of the most adorable Guna kidlets that I have ever seen.

Hi, I am adorable

Cutest Guna kidlet:)

And because I loved this little boy so much, here’s a video of him playing catch. What a little biscuit!

Well, I think that’s enough photos and video links for now. Stay tuned for the next blog about a most wild and crazy kayak trip to Guna Yala with my parents and our friends.

Please follow me on Instagram to check out my photos of traveling and paddling in beautiful places (mostly Panama and Alaska). I love hearing your comments. Contact me for trip information (or just to say hi).

HAPPY HOLIDAYS, PANAMA-STYLE!

Xmas by day, Isla Tigre

Xmas by night, Isla Tigre

This year I’ll be celebrating the upcoming holiday in Philadelphia. In fact, my family has already celebrated the 8 crazy nights of Hannukah. However, this year I’m thinking fondly of the many Christmases and New Years that I’ve celebrated with friends and clients while on sea kayaking trips in Guna Yala (San Blas), Panama.

Christmas tree, Guna-style

It’s a wonderfully unique and fun experience to us northerners to celebrate Xmas amongst palm trees, white sand beaches, and turquoise waters. I, for one, welcome the change from puffy down jackets and thermal underwear, to flip flops and bathing suits!

Wonders of the underwater world

Holiday season in Panama!

One of my favorite things to do as a child during Xmas was pile into the car with my brother and parents and drive around the neighborhood, admiring all of the Xmas lights and decorations. I’ve been enjoying this pastime the past few weeks.

While in Panama last year, prior to guiding my first kayak trip of the season, friends (Jared and Suzannah) and I were delighted to stumble upon a plaza in Panama City a block from our hostel. Lit up by thousands of lights and decorations, there were hundreds of families smiling and laughing together, with kids running around hyped up on sugar and holiday cheer. Suzannah and I may have also been hyped up. . . I forced her into a Xmas photo shoot, while Jared stood by in amusement.Oh, what fun!

Christmas on the Caribbean Islands of Guna Yala, also known as the San Blas Islands, albeit not as electrified as in the city, is none the less joyfully festive, with an added touch of colorful beach art decorations. My favorite are the soda cans cut into flowers and crafted into trees.

Cans put to good use as Xmas decorations, Isla Tigre

Cans beautifully transformed into a Xmas tree, Isla Tigre

Plastic and cans=Xmas decorations, Isla Tigre

And then there’s the festivities we enjoy during the sea kayaking trips that span Xmas and New Years; the food, the drink, the fireworks, the bonfires, the dancing, the singing, and the merry-making! The Guna are a fun bunch, who enjoy a good celebration!

Nemesio and the Guna crew preparing a New Years feast, Sichirdup

Nemesio, Adrian, Edgar, teach our Canadian clients how to party, Guna-style, Sichirdup

A bonfire to bring in the New Year, Sichirdup

A New Years seafood feast, Sichirdup

Xmas day fish and patacones, Misdup

Setting “Wish Balloons” out over the ocean, Misdup

Everyone gets a sparkler! Sichirdup

One brave Guna, Sichirdup

Jared playing Xmas Dominoes on Misdup

Liz, in celebratory mode!

Too much Xmas cheer for this one:)

So if you want a change of scenery next Christmas or New Year, and want to put presents under a palm tree and set off fireworks from a remote tropical island, let’s make it happen! Contact me for more information.

From Ileneinakayak and the wonderful crew of Guna and Panamanians who help make the magic happen, have yourself a merry Christmas and a happy, healthy and adventurous New Year. Stay tuned for more on my blog.

Peace to you this holiday season and New Year

The above mural is one of hundreds crafted by Michelle, the lovely owner (and yoga instructor) of La Buena Vida; hotel, restaurant, gift shop, and yoga studio (one of my favorite places to do yoga) in Santa Catalina, on the pacific side of Panama. Check them out here.

Merry Christmas. . . Panama-style:)

INSPIRATION FOR A CARIBBEAN WINTER HOLIDAY

Hi there! I’m getting amped up for another tropical season of paddling and adventuring in the Caribbean of Panama. To get you excited I’m here to inspire you with some scenes that will have you feeling a warm sea breeze on your sun-kissed skin. Close your eyes and you’ll hear the soothing sounds of palm fronds shaking in the breeze, and small waves lapping against the shore. Imagine sun-warmed white sand between your toes. Look around and you’ll see colorful hammocks swaying underneath bunches of Coconuts, while kayaks wait to take you on an adventure. Enjoy!